Travel

Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

This gate is near the Garden of Virtue and Harmony, home to the three-story-tall theater the Empress Dowager Cixi had built for her 60th birthday (in 1895). She’s responsible for much of the palace grounds…and much of the county’s financial pain paired with it.

Even though the Palace (which, ironically, isn’t just one structure, but an entire system of buildings, temples, gardens, and such) dates back to 1153, it was ransacked and virtually destroyed by Anglo-French forces in 1860 in retaliation for China’s defiance during the second Opium War. All that was left were nonflammable structures—the bronze pavilions and stone pagodas.

Twenty-eight years later, Cixi “kinda sorta” re-appropriated 30 millions taels of silver that were supposed to go to the Chinese Navy and “kinda sorta” spent them on rebuilding—and enlarging—the Summer Palace. In fact, that’s when she named it the Summer Palace.

Fast forward twelve years to 1900, when the next wave of destruction hit, this time when the Allied Forces invaded Beijing. Nearly all new construction was demolished, and all valuables were stripped and stolen by the troops.

But Cixi was a tough old cookie. Didn’t stop her from going for build out number three, this time in 1902 when, according to historical records, she “rebuilt the Summer Palace with unbounded extravagance and opulence, spending some 40,000 taels of silver per day. Singing and dancing went on without end.”

Which would have been fine, if not for the fact she ransacked the state coffers yet again.

Literally moments before she died, Cixi named the next, and final, Chinese Emperor—Puyi—who ascended the thrown just weeks before his third birthday. After the 1911 Revolution, the deposed Emperor retained the Palace as private property, but three years later opened it to the public.

When he was forcibly removed from the Forbidden City and Beijing, the Summer Palace was nearly destroyed yet again—this time, by the Chinese army. After the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949, restoration began one last time.

It took nearly four decades to bring the Summer Palace back to its original grandeur, but it is most certainly there.

And it is most certainly glorious.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

There it is. The high point of the palace grounds, and we’re headed that direction. The Pagoda of Buddhist Fragrance (aka, the Tower of Buddhist Incense). Right at the top of a 200 foot high staircase.

Between the Tian Tan Buddha, this morning’s climb on the Wall, and this, I sincerely expect to see a drop of at least three pounds on my bathroom scale upon returning home. I mean seriously.

Seriously.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

A peek at the ceiling in the Spring? Summer? pavilion. Breathtaking.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

As you walk along the Long Corridor, you come to four evenly spaced pavilions, each representing one of the four seasons. Inside, even the ceilings are layered with rich jewel tones crafted into intricate paintings that tell ancient stories and picture Chinese virtues.

This is the Jilan pavilion. I think it’s either spring or summer, but don’t quote me on that.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

One of the most impressive features of the Summer Palace is The Long Corridor, zig-zagging along the coastline, beginning at the Hall of Happiness and Longevity. It’s an exquisite sight, with 17,000 hand painted images adorning every square inch of its half mile length, including the rafters, making it both the longest and the most elaborately decorated corridor in Chinese garden architecture.

The Corridor is a peaceful place, heavily shaded by trees on both sides, and Kunming Lake on the left. I can easily imagine long, slow strolls by beautifully adorned Empresses years ago. The place is simply magical.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

It’s one thing to run into a fellow Minnesotan or two on the Great Wall (yeah, an understatement, I know).

It’s quite another to be strolling along, deep in conversation, when someone runs up, taps you on the shoulder, and says “Hey, I thought you were going to the Great Wall today!”

Yup. It happened.

A woman I met at the Pearl Market yesterday remembered our conversation, including my plans to see the Wall this morning. I told her we’d just come from there. She wished me a happy birthday (remembered that too), and was off.

Holly, of course, was initially stunned, looking at me as if a third eye had grown from the middle of my forehead. Then she stopped. Shrugged. Smiled. And said “Cinda, you know everyone in China.”

Not quite. But I’m working on it.

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Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Beijing

Following our hour-plus race through the hills back to Beijing, we visited the Summer Palace, where the Qing Dynasty retreated to when escaping the steamy city heat. Including the lush parks, a river and its three lakes (Kunming, West, and South), this little getaway lays out over about 2 square miles, overlooking the lakes from Longevity Hill.

How’s that for “lakeshore property?”

From the moment you enter the grounds, you’re surrounded by gardens, dragons and lions. The carving above is one near the entry, on a side wall, featuring the ever-powerful dragons and a giant pearl.

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