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The Olympic Fuwa

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Kowloon, Olympics, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

While strolling along the shoreline in front of the Museum of Modern Art, I had a chance meeting with the five Olympic mascots. What’s particularly interesting about these little creatures is that each is named after the traditional five elements: Beibei, Jingjing, Huanhuan, Yingying, and Nini. On their own, the names appeal to children, in a happy-go-lucky way. When you put the first syllable of each name together, however (Běijīng huānyíng nǐ), it sounds nearly identical to “北京欢迎你,“ which translates to “Beijing welcomes you.”

How cool is that?For those of you preparing to impress your friends before the Games begin:

Beibei = water
Jingjing = wood
Huanhuan = fire
Yingying = earth
Nini = sky

Lit from within, they looked truly magical and childlike. Just as they should.

Last stop before the hotel: One more ride on the Star Ferry.

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Spoon

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Dining, Hong Kong, Kowloon, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

If you’re determined to have a rock-your-world dinner in Kowloon, make a reservation at Spoon by Alain Ducasse in the InterContinental.

Or wander into the Peninsula Hotel , pretend you’re a guest there, bat your eyes, and ask the concierge to please call ahead for a table.

Granted, I don’t normally fly under the radar like that, but it occurred to me mid-Bay on the ferry that I’d forgotten to take care of this earlier. Given my attire (white t-shirt, faded jeans, a backpack, and stringy hair from having trekked all over Victoria Peak then hanging out over the railing on the ferry), my expectation was that they’d tuck me in a corner behind the kitchen door…if they let me in at all.

Oh, was I in for a surprise.

Not only was I met at the restaurant entrance by the General Manager, Phillipe Langioise (a lovely Frenchman who made sure there were no fewer then three handsome waiters attending to my every need at any given moment), but was shown to what has to be the prime spot for Bay watching—the elevated bar in the front dining room (see the table on the far right edge of the photo). I had it all to myself, was doted on all evening, and ate the most spectacular food of my life.

(Note to self: The white asparagus custard with egg is beyond nirvana when it comes to first courses. My world has been changed forever.)

The charming Frenchman, as it turns out, opened Café Boulud in New York years ago, where my friend, Gavin Kaysen, is now executive chef (the wunderkind of all chefdom, in my opinion). We visited at length about lovely food and lovely cities, me making the point that San Fran gets bonus points as the only city in the States where you can find a lovely Sauterne by the glass in every single restaurant.

Which is probably why he treated me to one during the desert course. And yes, it was divine.

When the Hong Kong skyline lit up with lights and lasers at 8:00 p.m., my prediction this was the best seat in Kowloon was proven true. As last nights go in any visited city, this one was going out in high style…high style, indeed.

(Photo credit: InterContinental Hotels and Resorts)

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The Star Ferry to Kowloon

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Kowloon, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

Next stop: The famous Star Ferry, to cross Victoria Bay in search of a nice dinner and good vantage point for watching the long awaited laser show over the water. The ride only lasts about five minutes (and that’s if you pad the timer), but the views are breathtaking.

FYI: The building in the distance that looks kind of like the Sydney Opera House is the Convention Center, where I’ve been all week. The scaffolding to its right (yes, bamboo) houses what will become the finished expansion a year from now, making it the largest gift show on earth.

The building on the right in the foreground in the Central Pier, where the ferry departed from. The one you see docked there still is the Golden Star—sister to the ferry I’m on.

Rumor has it the Star Ferry is being retired. Among the most beloved relics of Hong Kong (they’ve been criss-crossing the bay since 1888), it’s hard to believe that’s true. Still…with highly efficient subway service now sweeping people under the water every few minutes, it’s possible.

Just glad I had my chance to ride the crown jewel, lean over the rail, feel the wind in my hair, and smell the fragrances that are truly unique to Victoria Bay…and all for the equivalent of 75¢ US. That’s a pretty magical five minutes for next to nothing in change. Probably the best investment in Asia.

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Bamboo Tinker Toys

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

I’d heard about this, but until you see it, the whole concept seems ridiculous.

They really do use bamboo for scaffolding here. No steel. No metal, of any kind. Just bamboo and rope. Seriously.

Those in the know claim bamboo is actually stronger than metal. Still…don’t plan on seeing me crawl up one of these things. Uh uh. Not gonna happen.

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The Peak

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

They aren’t kidding when they say the view from here is astonishing. Even with the haze that’s part of daily life, Victoria Peak is easily among the top handful of perches in the world. And for those of you who are wondering—yes, I was dangling over the railing when I took this. Couldn’t help it. The altitude makes you think you can fly.

The only downside to the Peak? The recent addition of a massive shopping mall that the tram feeds directly into. Forgive me if I think having a Bubba Gump restaurant at the top of Hong Kong’s crown jewel is four shades of tacky. But it is.

The nicest surprise? A long, winding wooded path that wraps around the Peak, through some of the most amazing examples of plant life I’ve ever seen. The tropical humidity is so pronounced that even rocks sprout plant life, in lovely, delicate shapes and colors, enveloped in cool shade, filled with chirping birds.

Quite a yin and yang, between the city below and the path above. Very, very Hong Kong.

Again.

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Victoria Peak Tram

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

The ride to the top of Victoria Peak from Central is a doozie. You’re on a tram that’s packed to the gills like a can of sardines, lumbering up the tallest mountain in Hong Kong. About half way up, you realize the buildings are all leaning at weird angles.

That is, until it occurs to you the tram is what’s leaning at an angle…which means you’re leaning at an angle. As in at a full blown 45 degree tilt. Pretty amazing sensation (and valid reason to hope the maintenance team is a good one).

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St. John’s Cathedral

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

I love touring churches. There’s a beautiful tranquility and peace that inhabits sacred places. So of course, stumbling across St. John’s Cathedral on the way to the Victoria Peak tram station was a real thrill. The bummer? No photos allowed inside. (Note to Mom: The nice man who shooed me off in Mandarin was really sweet about the whole thing. See photo.)

St. John’s, in spite of its diminutive size, is a survivor. Originally built in 1847 as the first Anglican church in the Far East, it was occupied during World War II by the Japanese, who turned it into a Shinto Shrine. After the war, well…. Let’s just say we Episcopalians don’t let go of our churches. It reverted right back to Christ’s home, and remains the seat of Hong Kong’s Archbishop.

If you ever have a chance to pop in, do it. You won’t regret it. Just put the Nikon away first.

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The Torch That Lit a City

by Cinda Baxter on May 3, 2008

in Hong Kong, Olympics, Travel

Friday, May 2, 2008
Hong Kong

If there’s one thing you can’t miss in Hong Kong right now, it’s the arrival of the Olympic torch. Today, it runs through the streets with much pomp and circumstance. We were all invited to join in the festivities, but the combination of a State Department warning to U.S. citizens and my determination to see Victoria’s Peak and Kowloon today trumped the option. The closest I came was this cheering section along the torch route at the Central MTR station.

Still, the locals are pretty excited about their day in the sun, as well as China’s role as host of the games (remember, technically, HK returned to China with the British handoff in ‘97). Tibet might as well be on Jupiter, as far as folks here are concerned; the city is fueled on 100% joy right now.

A major part of that joy stems from the fact Hong Kong still considers itself “Not Chinese” by most (read: all) standards…and the locals make sure you know it. There’s a lot of national pride here, but it definitely doesn’t come from the mother country.

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