Beijing

Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

The rooftops of the various gates and palaces throughout China are adorned with creatures—similar to those on the rooftops of the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island in Hong Kong. The more creatures, the more significant the building, with a max of nine (there’s that number again), flanked by two important figures—an immortal riding a phoenix at the front of the line, symbolizing the Empress; a dragon at the end symbolizing the Emperor.

This is the lineup on top of the Gate of Supreme Harmony. There aren’t a lot of buildings that get more creature-heavy than this.

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Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

The Gate of Supreme Harmony marks the entrance to the second portion of the Outer Court, where the most well known image of the Forbidden City reigns from a mountain of marble tiers—the Hall of Supreme Harmony. But not yet.

In the bright sunlight of Beijing, the golden rooftops glow, each one painted in a high gloss yellow—the color of the royal family. The deep reds of the walls signify happiness and auspiciousness, while the vivid blues are a reflection of the heavens (remember the Temple of Heaven’s blue rooftops yesterday?). The overall effect is one of hyper-technicolor imagery, right there in front of the naked eye. Each building and gate is truly a spectacular vision.

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Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

In the next several posts, I’m going to walk you through the Forbidden City, beginning with the five marble bridges crossing the Jinshui Creek (better known as “Golden Waters”). The creek runs from west to east, in a gently curving path that mimics the jade belts worn by court officials.

Why five? To symbolize the five cardinal virtues of Confucius:

Jen – Benevolence, sympathy and perfect virtue in personal interactions
Yi – Sense of duty or responsibility
Li – Manners, propriety, good form, and the rituals governing social relationships*
Chih – Wisdom, reflected in a sense of right and wrong
Hsin – Good faith, trustworthiness, and loyalty

* Also known as the Emily Vanderbuilt Virtue (well, at least in my world)

That big building in the background? Our next stop, the Gate of Supreme Harmony. We can’t go inside, since it’s under renovation, though. Now through 2020, each of the palaces and gates are being buffed and polished, so it’s gonna be a while before all the construction walls and tarps are gone.

Hey, no sweat. It would be different if the entire thing was under plastic. Still looks gorgeous to me.

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Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

The Meridian Gate is the true entry point to the Forbidden City‘s Outer Court, where ceremonial events occurred. It was from the sky-high balconies that the Emperor would review his armies and announce the new lunar calendar on the Winter Solstice. Basically, it’s the pulpit from which he ruled the world as they knew it.

Today, it symbolizes the barrier between chaos and castles.

First stop: The ticket windows to the right of the five entry arches. The line moves quickly, provided you can fight your way through the entrepreneurial “guides” (see previous post). Apparently, the ticket window is the land of last chances; they know if they don’t snag a naïve tourist here, there are no more shots. They latch on, and don’t let go, no matter how many times you insist “No, no, no.” It got so bad that I finally began pretending I didn’t speak English. Of course, that didn’t stop one particularly rabid fellow from whipping out “I’ll be your guide” in French, just in case.

Second stop: The audio guide window, across the courtyard, to the left of the arches. Since both the entry and audio tickets are purchased at the ticket window, you trot over here next, stand in line at the window on the right, then exchange your audio ticket for a flat digital unit that hangs around your neck (in the language of your choice). Next, you move three feet to your left, to the next line, where you get the headphones and a 3-second explanation of its use.

Third step: Head to the arch immediately to the right of the audio booth. Get in the security line. Place your bags and cameras on the x-ray machine band (think: security at the airport), give them your ticket, then pass to the other end of the band where you pick up your items. Pretty simple. Pretty understandable.

Fourth step: Turn around, face into the Outer Courtyard and gasp with the realization that you’re actually standing here. In the Forbidden City. In Beijing.

Holy cow.

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Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

Before taking another step, you need to wrap your head around the hierarchy of gates, palaces, courtyards, and creatures here. The Forbidden City is, indeed, a city within a city, surrounded by sky-high fortress walls. Within that area are sub-sets of gates and palaces. As you move from the southern, more public end of the property toward the northern end that’s anchored by the Imperial Garden, you pass through a number of “gates,” or dividing line fortress walls that protect each new layer of intimacy.

The first courtyard you enter, between the Tiananmen Gate and the Meridian Gate isn’t actually a part of the Forbidden City at all, but merely an entrance to the Imperial Grounds, which explains the endless hawkers, kitch stands, ice cream carts, and carnival atmosphere that swirls around you in hyperactive speed. It’s nearly impossible to walk twenty paces without yet another entrepreneurial “guide” offering his services for a price.

Needless to say, not the experience I expected. Looks like once I pay for my entry ticket into the City, then pass through the Meridian Gate, the touristy sales stuff will vaporize.

Of course, not until after the entrepreneurs have had one last shot at all but tackling you to the ground as you pass through the ticket line.

Oh yeah. One other thing to wrap your head around. As recently as 1908, when the last Emperor ascended to the thrown, two months shy of his third birthday (yup…something else to wrap your head around), there were no “real men” allowed to live within the Forbidden City walls. Pretty much had to be one of the eunichs to get that p.o. address.

Yeeeeouch.

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Monday, May 5, 2008
Beijing

Entering the Tiananmen Gate (translated: Gate of Heavenly Peace) that leads to the Forbidden City, you’re met with two familiar sights—the 2-ton portrait of Chairman Mao gazing over Tiananmen Square from on high, and the boy soldiers who stand rigid guard around him day and night. The painting, which is actually a more flattering portrait than the original dour image that hung there first, has been in place for over fifty years (sans its annual cleaning on the eve of National Day, when a copy temporarily hangs in its place).

The baby-faced soldiers surrounding the gate look barely old enough to have facial hair, and stand as erect and still as stone. Not even as much as a blink.

The juxtaposition between youth and age with Tiananmen laid out just behind you is enough to make your head swim. Pretty potent stuff.

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